Amazônia

It is difficult to put the Amazon into words. You could call it a tropical rainforest, one of the most biodiverse ecosystems on earth. You could call it an agricultural opportunity for palm or soy or sugarcane, or you could call it a logger's dream (or worst legal nightmare). You could call it an international climate policy issue or an environmental activist's call to arms. You could call it a witness of cultural history. The Amazon is all of these things, and yet, none of these descriptions fully capture its essence. The Amazon is bigger than us and it becomes no less mythical once you're surrounded by it.

When I told Brazilian friends that I was going to tour the Amazon, they looked at me in surprise: "Even Brazilians don't go to the Amazon," they said. It's like the frontier of the Wild West: it's impossible to imagine what lies beyond. 

It certainly felt like the Wild West as I investigated my options for tours. There are so many options, so many scams, and so many Internet wars between competing companies. I wanted to find a tour group that truly practiced the three tenets of sustainability, which means it needed to be environmentally responsible, economically viable, and socially just. (Amazon tours make excellent case studies on greenwashing!) 

It took a week of research, but I finally found the right group. I chose Amazon Gero Tours, run by Gero Mesquita himself. In the Lonely Planet guidebook to Brazil, Gero is described as an all-around nice guy who will go out of his way to accomodate his guests. This is absolutely true. To begin with, he gave me his phone numbers for both his office and his home, told me I could call at anytime of day or night, and even picked me up at the airport in Manaus when my flight arrived at 1:30 in the morning. I stayed in a hotel next to his office in Manaus, slept for a few hours, and started the tour at 8:00 the same morning.

The tour group started with eight people. Since people stayed for different lengths of time--I stayed four days and three nights; other people for three or two days--there was a constant ebb and flow as some people left while others arrived. The logistics were very well organized, though, so it wasn't at all chaotic. Throughout the four days, I met one guy from South Africa, one girl from the U.S., and seven people from Germany, five of whom were travelling together. (Germans travel a lot.) I also met at least ten Brazilians, all of whom either worked for the tour company or lived in the area. The Brazilians told some of the best stories about life in Manaus and in the Amazon. We had nightly storytelling sessions; the only thing missing was the campfire!

One of the common misconceptions that the Brazilians cleared up right away was the distinction between "native" and "indigenous" people. I had thought that "indigenous" was the more politically aware term to call the "native" people. Not so! The native people are essentially the locals, the people who grew up in the area, and usually, the family of whom has lived lived in the area for generations. The "indigenous" people are the people who have essentially been "uncontacted". These are the people who live in tribes deep in the forest and have no concept of today's "modern" life. The tours were always led by two people: one native person and one person from Manaus.

Throughout the four days, we stayed in a "jungle lodge," which was essentially a very simple bed & breakfast, but adapted to the jungle -- i.e. electricity and running water only for a few hours per day, accomodations in bed or hammocks (I chose bed), and all meals included. There were many different activities: hiking in the jungle, learning about medicinal plants and trees, fishing for piranhas, catching (and holding) caiman, watching the stars at night, and LOTS of canoeing. All of these activities are shown here in my Picasa album. I'm not going to try to describe each activity--that would take several more entries--but if you have any questions, leave a comment on this blog and I'll be happy to reply.

I'll leave you with some of my favorite photos from the trip:

 On the way from the city of Manaus to the Amazon. Transportation itinerary: van, speedboat, van, canoe, land!

Meeting of the Rio Negro and the Rio Amazonas. The two rivers have different temperatures and move at different velocities, so they don't mix. 

 Our amazing guide, Reuben, showing off the grasshopper he made from palm leaves.

The Caboclo family home we visited.

 Caiman! 

In the canoe, wind at my back.